PROBABILITY CHARACTERISTICS OF WAVE AND WAVE PRESSURES IN FRONT OF VERTICAL BREAKWATER

The distribution of wave height in front of a vertical breakwater, the range of wave pressure fluctuation at different subsurface levels, and the wave periods have shown that they are practically invariable with depth and can be determined theoretically.The distribution of crest and trough of total pressures is the same as that of wave height.As far as different subsurface levels are concerned, the spectral constitution of wave pressure field and the regularity of attenuation of spectral components are analyzed at the vertical breakwater, and a new expression describing the equilibrium range of wave pressure spectrum obtained.