Li Shaowu, Wang Shangyi, Tomoya Shibayama. A nearshore wave breaking model[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 1998, (1): 121-132.
Citation: Li Shaowu, Wang Shangyi, Tomoya Shibayama. A nearshore wave breaking model[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 1998, (1): 121-132.

A nearshore wave breaking model

  • Received Date: 1996-10-08
  • Rev Recd Date: 1997-02-26
  • A wave breaking model is proposed on the basis of turbulent energy equation and the relationship of energy dissipation due to wave breaking en the surf zone.The model is established by introducing turbulent dissipation terms into the Iioussinesq equations and involves the breaking process of individual wave.The model is verified by experiment data in terms of wave height and mean surface elevation.Good agreements are obtained.
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      沈阳化工大学材料科学与工程学院 沈阳 110142

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