Experimental study of freak waves due to three-dimensional island terrain in random wave

Li Zou; Aimin Wang; Zhen Wang; Yuguo Pei; Xiaolong Liu

doi:10.1007/s13131-019-1390-x

Volume 38 Issue 6

Turn off MathJax

Article Contents

Article Navigation > Acta Oceanologica Sinica > 2019 > 38(6): 92-99

Li Zou, Aimin Wang, Zhen Wang, Yuguo Pei, Xiaolong Liu. Experimental study of freak waves due to three-dimensional island terrain in random wave[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 2019, 38(6): 92-99. doi: 10.1007/s13131-019-1390-x

Citation:

Li Zou, Aimin Wang, Zhen Wang, Yuguo Pei, Xiaolong Liu. Experimental study of freak waves due to three-dimensional island terrain in random wave[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 2019, 38(6): 92-99. doi: 10.1007/s13131-019-1390-x

Citation:

PDF( 2136 KB)

Experimental study of freak waves due to three-dimensional island terrain in random wave

doi: 10.1007/s13131-019-1390-x

Li Zou^{1, 2, 3
,
,},
Aimin Wang¹,
Zhen Wang⁴,
Yuguo Pei¹,
Xiaolong Liu⁵

1.
School of Naval Architecture, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China
2.
State Key Laboratory of Structural Analysis for Industrial Equipment, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China
3.
Collaborative Innovation Center for Advanced Ship and Deep-Sea Exploration, Shanghai 200240, China
4.
School of Mathematic Science, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China
5.
China Ship Scientific Research Center, Wuxi 214082, China

Funds: The Qingdao National Laboratory for Marine Science and Technology under contract No. QNLM20160RP0402; the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 51522902 and 51579040; the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities under contract No. DUT17ZD233; the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology of China under contract No. [2016]22.

More Information

Corresponding author: Email: zoulidut@126.com
Received Date: 2018-02-04
Accepted Date: 2018-03-26
Publish Date: 2019-06-01

Abstract

Abstract

An experimental study is carried out for waves passing an isolated reef terrain in a wave tank. A three-dimensional model of a representative and isolated reef terrain in the West Pacific is built. Random wave trains with various periods and wave heights are generated by a wave maker using the improved JONSWAP spectrum. It is observed that there are different kinds of generation processes and waveforms of freak waves. The freak wave factor ${H_{\rm{m}}}/{H_{\rm{s}}}$ (where ${H_{\rm{m}}}$ is the maximum wave height of wave series, and ${H_{\rm{s}}}$ is significant wave height) is analyzed in detail, in terms of the skewness, kurtosis and water depth, as well as the relationship between freak wave height ${H_{{\rm{fr}}}}$ and skewness. The freak wave factor ${H_{\rm{m}}}/{H_{\rm{s}}}$ is found to be in positive correlation with the kurtosis, while larger ${H_{{\rm{fr}}}}$ tends to be related with bigger skewness. The rapid variation of water depth, such as slope and seamount, contributes to the occurrence probability of freak waves.
- freak waves,
- random wave,
- skewness and kurtosis,
- three-dimensional island terrain

FullText(HTML)

References(34)

References

Cherneva Z, Soares C G. 2014. Time-frequency analysis of the sea state with the Andrea freak wave. Nat Hazards and Earth System Sciences, 14(12): 3143–3150. doi: 10.5194/nhess-14-3143-2014

Cui Cheng, Zhang Ningchuan, Kang Haigui, et al. 2013. An experimental and numerical study of the freak wave speed. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 32(5): 51–56. doi: 10.1007/s13131-013-0313-5

Cui Cheng, Zhang Ningchuan, Yu Yuxiu, et al. 2012. Numerical study on the effects of uneven bottom topography on freak waves. Ocean Engineering, 54: 132–141. doi: 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2012.06.021

Dean R G. 1990. Freak waves: a possible explanation. In: Tørum A, Gudmestad O T, eds. Water Wave Kinematics. Dordrecht: Springer, 609–612

Deng Yanfei, Yang Jianmin, Tian Xinliang, et al. 2016. An experimental study on deterministic freak waves: generation, propagation and local energy. Ocean Engineering, 118: 83–92. doi: 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2016.02.025

Didenkulova I. 2011. Shapes of freak waves in the coastal zone of the Baltic sea (Tallinn bay). Boreal Environment Research, 16(SA): 138–148

Dysthe K, Krogstad H E, Müller P. 2008. Oceanic rogue waves. Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, 40(1): 287–310. doi: 10.1146/annurev.fluid.40.111406.102203

Glejin J, Kumar V S, Nair T M B, et al. 2014. Freak waves off Ratnagiri, west coast of India. Indian Journal of Geo-marine Sciences, 43(7): 1339–1342

Goda Y. 1999. A comparative review on the functional forms of directional wave spectrum. Coastal Engineering J, 41(1): 1–20. doi: 10.1142/S0578563499000024

Gramstad O, Zeng H, Trulsen K, et al. 2013. Freak waves in weakly nonlinear unidirectional wave trains over a sloping bottom in shallow water. Physics of Fluids, 25(12): 122103. doi: 10.1063/1.4847035

Haver S. 2004. A possible freak wave event measured at the Draupner jacket January 1 1995. In: Olagnon M, Prevosto M, eds. Rogue Waves 2004. Brest, France: Ifremer, 1–8

Kharif C, Pelinovsky E, Slunyaev A. 2009. Rogue Waves in the Ocean. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer, 1–30

Lawton G. 2001. Monsters of the deep. New Scientist, 170(2297): 28–32

Li Jinxuan, Li Pengfei, Liu Shuxue. 2013. Observations of freak waves in random wave field in 2D experimental wave flume. China Ocean Engineering, 27(5): 659–670. doi: 10.1007/s13344-013-0055-3

Li Jinxuan, Yang Jiqing, Liu Shuxue, et al. 2015. Wave groupiness analysis of the process of 2D freak wave generation in random wave trains. Ocean Engineering, 104: 480–488. doi: 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2015.05.034

Liu Zanqiang, Zhang Ningchuan, Yu Yuxiu. 2011. An efficient focusing model for generation of freak waves. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 30(6): 19–26. doi: 10.1007/s13131-011-0157-9

Lu Wenyue, Yang Jianmin, Tao Longbin. 2016. Numerical study of the energy structure of super rogue waves. Ocean Engineering, 113: 295–307. doi: 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2015.11.006

Mori N, Liu P C, Yasuda T. 2002. Analysis of freak wave measurements in the sea of Japan. Ocean Engineering, 29(11): 1399–1414. doi: 10.1016/S0029-8018(01)00073-7

Onorato M, Osborne A R, Serio M, et al. 2006. Extreme waves, modulational instability and second order theory: wave flume experiments on irregular waves. European Journal of Mechanics-B/Fluids, 25(5): 586–601. doi: 10.1016/j.euromechflu.2006.01.002

Pei Yuguo, Zhang Ningchuan, Zhang Yunqiu. 2007. Efficient generation of freak waves in laboratory. China Ocean Engineering, 21(3): 515–523

Qin Hao, Tang Wenyong, Hu Zhe, et al. 2017. Structural response of deck structures on the green water event caused by freak waves. Journal of Fluids and Structures, 68: 322–338. doi: 10.1016/j.jfluidstructs.2016.11.009

Sergeeva A, Pelinovsky E, Talipova T. 2011. Nonlinear random wave field in shallow water: variable Korteweg-de Vries framework. Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, 11(2): 323–330. doi: 10.5194/nhess-11-323-2011

Shemer L, Sergeeva A. 2009. An experimental study of spatial evolution of statistical parameters in a unidirectional narrow-banded random wavefield. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 114(C1): C01015

Slunyaev A, Didenkulova I, Pelinovsky E. 2011. Rogue waters. Contemporary Physics, 52(6): 571–590. doi: 10.1080/00107514.2011.613256

Soares C G, Cherneva Z, Antão E M. 2003. Characteristics of abnormal waves in North Sea storm sea states. Applied Ocean Research, 25(6): 337–344. doi: 10.1016/j.apor.2004.02.005

Tayfun M A, Fedele F. 2007. Wave-height distributions and nonlinear effects. Ocean Engineering, 34(11–12): 1631–1649. doi: 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2006.11.006

Toffoli A, Bitner-Gregersen E, Onorato M, et al. 2008. Wave crest and trough distributions in a broad-banded directional wave field. Ocean Engineering, 35(17–18): 1784–1792. doi: 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2008.08.010

Toffoli A, Cavaleri L, Babanin A V, et al. 2011. Occurrence of extreme waves in three-dimensional mechanically generated wave fields propagating over an oblique current. Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, 11(3): 895–903. doi: 10.5194/nhess-11-895-2011

Toffoli A, Waseda T, Houtani H, et al. 2015. Rogue waves in opposing currents: an experimental study on deterministic and stochastic wave trains. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 769: 277–297. doi: 10.1017/jfm.2015.132

Trulsen K, Zeng H, Gramstad O. 2012. Laboratory evidence of freak waves provoked by non-uniform bathymetry. Physics of Fluids, 24(9): 097101. doi: 10.1063/1.4748346

Veltcheva A D, Soares C G. 2012. Analysis of abnormal wave groups in Hurricane Camille by the Hilbert Huang Transform method. Ocean Engineering, 42: 102–111. doi: 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2011.12.013

Waseda T, Kinoshita T, Tamura H. 2009. Evolution of a random directional wave and freak wave occurrence. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 39(3): 621–639. doi: 10.1175/2008JPO4031.1

Zeng H, Trulsen K. 2012. Evolution of skewness and kurtosis of weakly nonlinear unidirectional waves over a sloping bottom. Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, 12(3): 631–638. doi: 10.5194/nhess-12-631-2012

Zhang Yunqiu, Zhang Ningchuan, Hu Jinpeng. 2007. Numerical simulation and mechanism analysis of freak waves. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 26(5): 116–124

Relative Articles

Supplements(0)

Cited By

Proportional views