Numerical modelling of nonlinear extreme waves in presence of wind

NING Dezhi; DU Jun; BAI Wei; ZHANG Chongwei; TENG Bin

doi:10.1007/s13131-018-1268-3

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Article Navigation > Acta Oceanologica Sinica > 2018 > 37(9): 90-98

NING Dezhi, DU Jun, BAI Wei, ZHANG Chongwei, TENG Bin. Numerical modelling of nonlinear extreme waves in presence of wind[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 2018, 37(9): 90-98. doi: 10.1007/s13131-018-1268-3

Citation:

NING Dezhi, DU Jun, BAI Wei, ZHANG Chongwei, TENG Bin. Numerical modelling of nonlinear extreme waves in presence of wind[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 2018, 37(9): 90-98. doi: 10.1007/s13131-018-1268-3

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Numerical modelling of nonlinear extreme waves in presence of wind

doi: 10.1007/s13131-018-1268-3

1.
State Key Laboratory of Hydrology-Water Resources and Hydraulic Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210098, China;State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116023, China
2.
State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116023, China;China Communications Planning and Design Institute for Water Transportation Ltd., Beijing 100007, China
3.
School of Computing, Mathematics and Digital Technology, Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester M1 5GD, UK
4.
State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116023, China

Received Date: 2017-08-04

Abstract

Abstract

A numerical wave flume with fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions is adopted to investigate the temporal characteristics of extreme waves in the presence of wind at various speeds. Incident wave trains are numerically generated by a piston-type wave maker, and the wind-excited pressure is introduced into dynamic boundary conditions using a pressure distribution over steep crests, as defined by Jeffreys' sheltering mechanism. A boundary value problem is solved by a higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM) and a mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian time marching scheme. The proposed model is validated through comparison with published experimental data from a focused wave group. The influence of wind on extreme wave properties, including maximum extreme wave crest, focal position shift, and spectrum evolution, is also studied. To consider the effects of the wind-driven currents on a wave evolution, the simulations assume a uniform current over varying water depth. The results show that wind causes weak increases in the extreme wave crest, and makes the nonlinear energy transfer non-reversible in the focusing and defocusing processes. The numerical results also provide a comparison to demonstrate the shifts at focal points, considering the combined effects of the winds and the wind-driven currents.
- extreme waves,
- fully nonlinear numerical wave flume,
- higher-order boundary element,
- wave focusing,
- Jeffreys' sheltering mechanism

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