Turn off MathJax
Article Contents
Taihuan Hu, Zhiqiang Li, Chunhua Zeng, Gaocong Li, Huiling Zhang. Applications of EMD to analyses of high-frequency beachface responses to Storm Bebinca in Qing’an Bay, Guangdong Province, China[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica. doi: 10.1007/s13131-021-1948-2
Citation: Taihuan Hu, Zhiqiang Li, Chunhua Zeng, Gaocong Li, Huiling Zhang. Applications of EMD to analyses of high-frequency beachface responses to Storm Bebinca in Qing’an Bay, Guangdong Province, China[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica. doi: 10.1007/s13131-021-1948-2

Applications of EMD to analyses of high-frequency beachface responses to Storm Bebinca in Qing’an Bay, Guangdong Province, China

doi: 10.1007/s13131-021-1948-2
Funds:  The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 42176167 and 41676079; the Project of Enhancing School with Innovation, Guangdong Ocean University, under contract No. Q18307.
More Information
  • Corresponding author: E-mail: qiangzl1974@163.com
  • Received Date: 2021-07-09
  • Accepted Date: 2021-08-26
  • Available Online: 2022-01-20
  • On average, five to six storms occur in the Qiongzhou Strait every year, causing significant damage to coastal geomorphology and several property losses. Tropical Storm Bebinca is the most unusual and complex storm event that has occurred in this region over the last 10 years. To detect the high-frequency beachface responses to the storm, a pressure sensor was deployed in the surf zone to record the free sea surface height, and the heights of grid pile points on the beachface were measured manually to determine beach elevation changes during this storm. Empirical Mode Decomposition and related analysis techniques were used to analyze the high-frequency topography and wave data. The results showed that: (1) the beachface response process occurred in three stages. The first stage was the rapid response stage, wherein the spring tide berm began to erode significantly, and the front edge of the beach berm reacted closely. The two beach sections resisted the harmful energy of the main storm. In the second stage, the beach slope increased after a large sediment loss on the beach berm and its front edge. To adapt to the storm energy, the beach at the low tide line began to erode, and the beach slope decreased. In the third stage, after the storm turned, the wave energy was significantly attenuated, and the beach berm eroded to resist the residual wave energy. The beachface began to oscillate and recover. (2) The main wave surface was the superimposed product of a few internal mode functions. Similar results were observed in beachface changes. High-frequency driving factors determine the local characteristics of beach evolution, and low-frequency driving factors determine the beach evolution trend. (3) The response of sediment to the storm was not a single sea-transportation, but a single- or two-way conversion driven by factors such as wave energy, swash flow, and secondary wave breaking. (4) The Ω-RTR model is not completely applicable to beach states that undergo rapid changes during storms. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out further research on beach state identification during storms.
  • loading
  • [1]
    Aagaard T, Hughes M, Baldock T, et al. 2012. Sediment transport processes and morphodynamics on a reflective beach under storm and non-storm conditions. Marine Geology, 326–328: 154–165
    [2]
    Abuodha J. 2003. Grain size distribution and composition of modern dune and beach sediments, Malindi bay coast, Kenya. Journal of African Earth Sciences, 36(1–2): 41–54 doi: 10.1016/S0899-5362(03)00016-2
    [3]
    Aftab M F, Hovd M, Huang N E, et al. 2016. An adaptive non-linearity detection algorithm for process control loops. IFAC-PapersOnLine, 49(7): 1020–1025 doi: 10.1016/j.ifacol.2016.07.336
    [4]
    Aftab M F, Hovd M, Sivalingam S. 2017. Detecting non-linearity induced oscillations via the dyadic filter bank property of multivariate empirical mode decomposition. Journal of Process Control, 60: 68–81 doi: 10.1016/j.jprocont.2017.08.005
    [5]
    Almar R, Ranasinghe R, Sénéchal N, et al. 2012. Video-based detection of shorelines at complex meso-macro tidal beaches. Journal of Coastal Research, 28(5): 1040–1048 doi: 10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-10-00149.1
    [6]
    Backstrom J T, Jackson D W T, Cooper J A G, et al. 2008. Storm-driven shoreface morphodynamics on a low-wave energy delta: the role of nearshore topography and shoreline orientation. Journal of Coastal Research, 246(6): 1379–1387
    [7]
    Bao Liyan. 1989. Sedimentary characteristics and landform developments of Qing'an bay beach in southern Leizhou peninsula. Tropic Oceanology (in Chinese), 8(2): 75–83
    [8]
    [9]
    Boashash B. 1992. Estimating and interpreting the instantaneous frequency of a signal-Part I. Fundamentals. Proceedings of the IEEE, 80(4): 520–538 doi: 10.1109/5.135376
    [10]
    Brenner O T, Lentz E E, Hapke C J, et al. 2018. Characterizing storm response and recovery using the beach change envelope: Fire Island, New York. Geomorphology, 300: 189–202 doi: 10.1016/j.geomorph.2017.08.004
    [11]
    Cai F, Su X Z, Xia D X. 2004. Study on the Difference Between Storm Effects of Beaches on Two Sides of the Tropical Cyclone Track—Taking the Responses of Beaches to No. 0307 Typhoon Imbudo as an example. Advances in Marine Science (in Chinese), 22(4): 436–445
    [12]
    Chen Zishen. 2000. Analysis on spatial and temporal processes of beach profile variations. Marine Science Bulletin (in Chinese), 19(2): 42–48
    [13]
    Coco G, Senechal N, Rejas A, et al. 2014. Beach response to a sequence of extreme storms. Geomorphology, 204: 493–501 doi: 10.1016/j.geomorph.2013.08.028
    [14]
    Collias E E, Rona M R, McManus D A, et al. 1963. Machine processing of geological data. University of Washington Technical Report Number 87. Seattle 5, Washington, USA: University of Washington Department of Oceanalgraphy, 119–120
    [15]
    Corbella S, Stretch D D. 2012. Shoreline recovery from storms on the east coast of Southern Africa. Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, 12(1): 11–22 doi: 10.5194/nhess-12-11-2012
    [16]
    Costas S, Alejo I, Vila-Concejo A, et al. 2005. Persistence of storm-induced morphology on a modal low-energy beach: a case study from NW-Iberian Peninsula. Marine Geology, 224(1–4): 43–56 doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2005.08.003
    [17]
    Dai Zhijun, Liu J T, Lei Yaping, et al. 2010. Patterns of sediment transport pathways on a headland bay beach—Nanwan beach, South China: a case study. Journal of Coastal Research, 26(6): 1096–1103
    [18]
    Dätig M, Schlurmann T. 2004. Performance and limitations of the Hilbert-Huang transformation (HHT) with an application to irregular water waves. Ocean Engineering, 31(14–15): 1783–1834 doi: 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2004.03.007
    [19]
    Escudero M, Silva R, Hesp P A, et al. 2019. Morphological evolution of the sandspit at Tortugueros Beach, Mexico. Marine Geology, 407: 16–31 doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2018.10.002
    [20]
    Feng Xi, Olabarrieta M, Valle-Levinson A. 2016. Storm-induced semidiurnal perturbations to surges on the US Eastern Seaboard. Continental Shelf Research, 114: 54–71 doi: 10.1016/j.csr.2015.12.006
    [21]
    Folk R L, Ward W C. 1957. Brazos river bar: a study in the significance of grain size parameters. Journal of Sedimentary Research, 27(1): 3–26 doi: 10.1306/74D70646-2B21-11D7-8648000102C1865D
    [22]
    Gallagher E L, Macmahan J, Reniers A J H M, et al. 2011. Grain size variability on a rip-channeled beach. Marine Geology, 287(1–4): 43–53 doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2011.06.010
    [23]
    Gervais M, Balouin Y, Belon R. 2012. Morphological response and coastal dynamics associated with major storm events along the Gulf of Lions Coastline, France. Geomorphology, 143–144: 69–80
    [24]
    Gunaratna T, Suzuki T, Yanagishima S. 2019. Cross-shore grain size and sorting patterns for the bed profile variation at a dissipative beach: Hasaki coast, Japan. Marine Geology, 407: 111–120 doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2018.10.008
    [25]
    Haerens P, Bolle A, Trouw K, et al. 2012. Definition of storm thresholds for significant morphological change of the sandy beaches along the Belgian coastline. Geomorphology, 143–144: 104–117
    [26]
    Harley M D, Turner I L, Kinsela M A, et al. 2017. Extreme coastal erosion enhanced by anomalous extratropical storm wave direction. Scientific Reports, 7(1): 6033 doi: 10.1038/s41598-017-05792-1
    [27]
    Hegge B, Eliot I, Hsu J. 1996. Sheltered sandy beaches of Southwestern Australia. Journal of Coastal Research, 12(3): 748–760
    [28]
    Hoefel F, Elgar S. 2003. Wave-induced sediment transport and sandbar migration. Science, 299(5614): 1885–1887 doi: 10.1126/science.1081448
    [29]
    Holman R A. 1983. Edge waves and the configuration of the shoreline. In: The CRC Handbook of Coastal Processes and Erosion. Boca Raton: CRC Press, 21–23
    [30]
    Holman R A, Haller M C, Lippmann T C, et al. 2015. Advances in nearshore processes research: four decades of process. Shore & Beach, 83(1): 39–52
    [31]
    Horsburgh K J, Wilson C. 2007. Tide-surge interaction and its role in the distribution of surge residuals in the North Sea. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 112(8): C08003
    [32]
    Huang N E, Shen Zheng, Long S R, et al. 1998. The empirical mode decomposition and the Hilbert spectrum for nonlinear and non-stationary time series analysis. Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 454(1971): 903–995
    [33]
    Karunarathna H, Horrillo-Caraballo J, Kuriyama Y, et al. 2016. Linkages between sediment composition, wave climate and beach profile variability at multiple timescales. Marine Geology, 381: 194–208 doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2016.09.012
    [34]
    Karunarathna H, Pender D, Ranasinghe R, et al. 2014. The effects of storm clustering on beach profile variability. Marine Geology, 348: 103–112 doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2013.12.007
    [35]
    Lee G H, Nicholls R J, Birkemeier W A. 1998. Storm-driven variability of the beach-nearshore profile at Duck, North Carolina, USA, 1981–1991. Marine Geology, 148(3–4): 163–177 doi: 10.1016/S0025-3227(98)00010-3
    [36]
    Li Zhiqiang. 2016. Relationship between high-frequency sediment-level oscillations in the swash zone and inner surf zone wave characteristics under calm wave conditions. Open Geosciences, 8(1): 787–798
    [37]
    Li Ying, Lark M, Reeve D. 2005. Multi-scale variability of beach profiles at Duck: A wavelet analysis. Coastal Engineering, 52(12): 1133–1153 doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.07.002
    [38]
    Liu Gen, Cai Feng, Qi Hongshuai, et al. 2019. Morphodynamic evolution and adaptability of nourished beaches. Journal of Coastal Research, 35(4): 737–750 doi: 10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-18-00037.1
    [39]
    Loureiro C, Ferreira Ó, Cooper J A G. 2012. Geologically constrained morphological variability and boundary effects on embayed beaches. Marine Geology, 329–331: 1–15
    [40]
    Ludka B C, Guza R T, O'Reilly W C, et al. 2015. Field evidence of beach profile evolution toward equilibrium. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 120(11): 7574–7597 doi: 10.1002/2015JC010893
    [41]
    Ma Binbin, Dai Zhijun, Pang Wenhong, et al. 2019. Dramatic typhoon-induced variability in the grain size characteristics of sediments at a meso-macrotidal beach. Continental Shelf Research, 191: 104006 doi: 10.1016/j.csr.2019.104006
    [42]
    Mandic D P, Rehman N U, Wu Z H, et al. 2013. Empirical mode decomposition-based time-frequency analysis of multivariate signals: The power of adaptive data analysis. IEEE Signal Processing Magazine, 30(6): 74–86 doi: 10.1109/MSP.2013.2267931
    [43]
    Masselink G, Hegge B J, Pattiaratchi C B. 1997. Beach cusp morphodynamics. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 22(12): 1139–1155 doi: 10.1002/(SICI)1096-9837(199712)22:12<1139::AID-ESP766>3.0.CO;2-1
    [44]
    Masselink G, Short A D. 1993. The effect of tide range on beach morphodynamics and morphology: A conceptual beach model. Journal of Coastal Research, 9(3): 785–800
    [45]
    Mendoza E, Velasco M, Velasco-Herrera G, et al. 2020. Spectral analysis of sea surface elevations produced by big storms: The case of hurricane Wilma. Regional Studies in Marine Science, 39: 101390 doi: 10.1016/j.rsma.2020.101390
    [46]
    Múnera S, Osorio A F, Velásquez J D. 2014. Data-based methods and algorithms for the analysis of sandbar behavior with exogenous variables. Computers & Geosciences, 72: 134–146
    [47]
    Ortega J, Smith G H. 2009. Hilbert–Huang transform analysis of storm waves. Applied Ocean Research, 31(3): 212–219 doi: 10.1016/j.apor.2009.09.003
    [48]
    Pender D, Karunarathna H. 2013. A statistical-process based approach for modelling beach profile variability. Coastal Engineering, 81: 19–29 doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2013.06.006
    [49]
    Qi Hongshuai, Cai Feng, Lei Gang, et al. 2010. The response of three main beach types to tropical storms in South China. Marine Geology, 275(1–4): 244–254 doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2010.06.005
    [50]
    Reeve D, Li Ying, Lark M, et al. 2007. An investigation of the multi-scale temporal variability of beach profiles at Duck using wavelet packet transforms. Coastal Engineering, 54(5): 401–415 doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2006.11.008
    [51]
    Regnauld H, Pirazzoli P A, Morvan G, et al. 2004. Impacts of storms and evolution of the coastline in western France. Marine Geology, 210(1–4): 325–337 doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2004.05.014
    [52]
    Russell P E. 1993. Mechanisms for beach erosion during storms. Continental Shelf Research, 13(11): 1243–1265 doi: 10.1016/0278-4343(93)90051-X
    [53]
    Sallenger A H Jr, Richmond B M. 1984. High-frequency sediment-level oscillations in the swash zone. Marine Geology, 60(1–4): 155–164 doi: 10.1016/0025-3227(84)90148-8
    [54]
    Schlurmann T. 2002. Spectral analysis of nonlinear water waves based on the Hilbert-Huang transformation. Journal of Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering, 124(1): 22–27 doi: 10.1115/1.1423911
    [55]
    Scott T, Masselink G, O'Hare T, et al. 2016. The extreme 2013/2014 winter storms: beach recovery along the southwest coast of England. Marine Geology, 382: 224–241 doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2016.10.011
    [56]
    Scott T, Masselink G, Russell P. 2011. Morphodynamic characteristics and classification of beaches in England and Wales. Marine Geology, 286(1–4): 1–20 doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2011.04.004
    [57]
    Senechal N, Abadie S, Gallagher E, et al. 2011. The ECORS-Truc Vert'08 nearshore field experiment: presentation of a three-dimensional morphologic system in a macro-tidal environment during consecutive extreme storm conditions. Ocean Dynamics, 61(12): 2073–2098 doi: 10.1007/s10236-011-0472-x
    [58]
    Senechal N, Coco G, Castelle B, et al. 2015. Storm impact on the seasonal shoreline dynamics of a meso- to macrotidal open sandy beach (Biscarrosse, France). Geomorphology, 228: 448–461 doi: 10.1016/j.geomorph.2014.09.025
    [59]
    Splinter K D, Carley J T, Golshani A, et al. 2014. A relationship to describe the cumulative impact of storm clusters on beach erosion. Coastal Engineering, 83: 49–55 doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2013.10.001
    [60]
    Titchmarsh E C. 1948. Introduction to the Theory of Fourier Integrals. 2nd ed. Oxford: Clarendon Press.
    [61]
    Valle-Levinson A, Olabarrieta M, Valle A. 2013. Semidiurnal perturbations to the surge of Hurricane Sandy. Geophysical Research Letters, 40(10): 2211–2217 doi: 10.1002/grl.50461
    [62]
    van der Meulen T, Gourlay M R. 1968. Beach and dune erosion tests. In: Proceedings of 11th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. London, UK: American Society of Civil Engineers
    [63]
    Van Rijn L C. 2009. Prediction of dune erosion due to storms. Coastal Engineering, 56(4): 441–457 doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.006
    [64]
    Vincent C, Giebel G, Pinson P, et al. 2010. Resolving nonstationary spectral information in wind speed time series using the Hilbert–Huang transform. Journal of Applied Meteorology & Climatology, 49(2): 253–267
    [65]
    Wang Baochan, Chen Shenliang, Gong Wenping, et al. 2006. The Formation and Evolution of the Harbor and Coast of Hainan Island (in Chinese). Beijing: Ocean Press, 32–33
    [66]
    Wang Yangsheng, Chen Zisen, Liu Mengwei. 2008. Analysis of water oscillations in beach-surf zone based on Hilbert-Huang transform. Acta Scientiarum Naturalium Universitatis Sunyatseni (in Chinese), 47(1): 112–115
    [67]
    Wright L D, Short A D. 1984. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine Geology, 56(1–4): 93–118 doi: 10.1016/0025-3227(84)90008-2
    [68]
    Zeng Chunhua, Zhu Shibing, Li Zhiqiang, et al. 2020. High-frequency in situ measurements of beach responses to Tropical Storm Bebinca at Qing'an Bay, Guangdong Province, China. Regional Studies in Marine Science, 36: 101285 doi: 10.1016/j.rsma.2020.101285
  • 加载中

Catalog

    通讯作者: 陈斌, bchen63@163.com
    • 1. 

      沈阳化工大学材料科学与工程学院 沈阳 110142

    1. 本站搜索
    2. 百度学术搜索
    3. 万方数据库搜索
    4. CNKI搜索

    Figures(17)  / Tables(4)

    Article Metrics

    Article views (177) PDF downloads(16) Cited by()
    Proportional views
    Related

    /

    DownLoad:  Full-Size Img  PowerPoint
    Return
    Return